UN Special N° 655 Octobre · October 2006 

Life on the ring of fire

Philip Jenkins, Former WHO Staff member

Almost all the television-owning people of the world remember the South-East Asian tsunami of 26 December 2004. But how many remember the earthquake that hit the area around Jogyakarta, Java, on 27 May 2006? In the space of one minute it brought down hundreds of thousands of houses and left six thousand dead, nearly twice the number of people killed in the World Trade Centre attack of September 2001. Why do terrorist-inspired deaths attract so much more attention than those resulting from natural disasters? Probably it depends whether they happen in a “developed” country or not. And why are the world’s newspapers constantly full of stories about the violence and wars perpetuated by Man (as opposed to Woman), rather than the day-to-day joys or sufferings of the world’s people?
Even if we no longer read anything about them, all those hundreds of thousands of Javan families do still exist, only partially in some cases, and are slowly overcoming the shock of seeing their houses disintegrate around them. Most of them are still living in tents and wondering where they will find the money to rebuild their homes, when the prices of bricks, cement and all the other materials are doubling due to the enormous demand. We, in our comfortable European homes, rest assured that if fire or some other catastrophe should destroy them, then the insurance company will take care of everything. In Indonesia, and most other “developing” countries, house insurance is almost unknown. If you lose your house you have lost almost everything, especially if it has collapsed on your only means of transport: a bicycle or motor cycle.
Late on 26 May I sent a text message to a friend who lives close to Prambanan, the huge ninth century Hindu temple complex that lies 15 km to the north-east of Jogyakarta. Due to the time difference, it arrived in Java at 5.30 am the next day. So, when the earthquake struck 25 minutes later, she was already awake, able to arouse her father, brother and 2-year-old niece, and run outside as the brick walls started to fall. Her mother, though, was in the middle of showering. With no chance of running outside unclothed, she was crushed under the collapsing masonry.
Two months after the earthquake I travelled to Jogyakarta to transmit to the local relief organization the money donated by WHO staff as a result of a long-distance run. The money will help the relief effort, but equally important to the victims (and this was the reason for handing it over personally) is the knowledge that, in spite of the media’s loss of interest, there are people 15,000 km away who are thinking of them and want to help them return to their previous lives.
The scene that greeted my eyes when I reached Prambanan was one of complete destruction, comparable only with the photos I’d seen of European cities at the end of WWII. And yet, amid all this devastation, the occasional house stood almost intact, its painted walls and colourful tiles a stark contrast to the piles of bricks and grey dust and a reminder of what the town looked like before it was shaken to bits. The other survivors were the banana, jackfruit and mango trees planted in people’s gardens, witnesses to the resilience of nature compared to the fragility of human structures.
I slept the first night in a tent erected by a family within the ruins of their house. Next morning I awoke to the sounds of Javan village life: cocks crowing, the family’s flock of geese quacking and the call to prayer from the nearby mosque. At 5 am the family started their daily chore of slowly taking down the remaining cracked walls in order to salvage as many bricks as possible. Just to be doing something positive like this is of psychological benefit to people who have had their everyday lives shattered so abruptly. This gives them the hope that one day they will be able to start rebuilding, though they know that with so many houses affected they cannot count on any government help.
With five others I went to Bantul, the nearest town to the earthquake epicentre, to visit a group of children traumatized by the loss of their homes and, in many cases, a family member. We spent the afternoon talking with them, playing games, singing and drawing. July is in the middle of the dry season, so for the moment at least the clearing-up work is not plagued by daily downpours which, towards the end of the year, will be making life very miserable for those still living in tents.
The earthquake was preceded by the eruption of Merapi, the world’s sixth most active volcano. It lies on the Pacific “Ring of Fire” just 25 km due north of Jogyakarta and required the evacuation of 20,000 villagers from its fertile lower slopes. And it was followed one month later by a tsunami that killed over 600 people along the south Javan coast. All this serves to underline the precariousness of life in many parts of the planet, something that we who live far from any of the tectonic plate boundaries seldom think about.

Contributions to the local relief fund can be sent to :
Wisma Bahasa, Jalan Rajawali, Gg. Nuri # 6,
Demangan Baru, Jogyakarta, Indonesia 55281
heri@wisma-bahasa.or.id
philippejenkins@yahoo.com

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