Saveurs du monde
Kazakh Food
Lyubov Chumakova, UNECE
We hope that by this short article we will encourage you to visit this wonderful land Kazakhstan, which is not only hospitable but it is a very beautiful country, with gorgeous mountains on the south of the country, marvellous nature, smiling and warm-hearted people, rich culture, long-centuries historical traditions, and where the horses are… not just for riding.
Brief country introduction: Kazakhstan is the second largest country in land area after Russia of the former Soviet Union. The area is five times of the area of France (!), but the population is about 15 mln.. Population by ethnic groups – more than a half are Kazakhs, about 30% Russians. A majority of Kazakh people are Muslims, though Russians are Orthodox Christians. The capital is Astana (until 1996 it was Almaty). Kazakhstan is bordered by the Russian Federation, the Caspian Sear, Turkmenistan,
Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and ChinaOfficial language is Kazakh, and Russian has left with specific status «language for international contacts» (between ethnic groups). The National Flag of the Republic of Kazakhstan is the rectangular flag of the blue colour with depicted rising sun and the flying eagle beneath it.
Kazakh food mirrors the people’s nature, their history, reflects the customs and traditions. Since olden times hospitality has been the most distinctive feature of the Kazakh people. The dear guest was given a cordial welcome and was offered the place of honour.
In the first instance the guest was treated to kumis (horse milk) or shubat (camel milk). Then followed appetizers made of horseflesh or mutton «main food». Flat cakes made of flour were sewed without fail.
The abdomen of any dastarkhan has always been meat in the Kazakh manner. The most popular among all meat dishes are dishes on the basis of horsemeat or mutton. The typical names of them are: kazi and chuzhuk (horsemeat sausages), kaurdak (mutton stew) and besbarmak (boiled meat and small pieces of dough). The most widespread among national dishes is
besbarmak. It could be translated as “five fingers” because of eating manner (with hands).
Boiled meat is usually served in large pieces. To the guest of honour ranking highest among the others the host hands over the sheep’s head cooked in a special way. First, this guest has to eat the sheep eye and then has to distribute pieces of head among the other guests observing a certain ritual which reflects the ancient custom of respectful regard for guests old men, children, close and distant relatives. (We happen to be present at such a ceremony of the welcoming of the high ranking UN officials, and we propose the pictures how this rite looks now).
The fragrant meat is eaten with rolled and boiled small pieces of dough. An excellent addition to this dish is the saturated fragrant meat broth called sorpa which is usually served in pialas. One of the integral part of this kind of dastarkhan is tea with milk or cream. After heavy food this is pleasant ceremony with eastern “sweets”: baursaks (fried small balls from dough), raisins, kurt (salt small balls prepared from milk), chak-chak (fried sticks from dough with honey).
If during its century-old history the Kazakh people has accumulated much experience in processing and cooking meat and milk dishes, the present-day life has replenished this set by dishes made of vegetables, fruits, fish, sea products, as well as baked and meal makings and sweets. And nevertheless meat has been and remains the most popular food-stuff in the Kazakh national cuisine.
Besbarmak
Ingredients:
0.5 kg of horseflesh, 1kg of mutton, 5 bulbs of onion, some flour, 1 egg, salt, spices to taste.
Cooking cut meat for large pieces, put them together into a large casserole and coat everything with water. You should boil it, take away the scum, salt and cook till meat is ready to eat. Before switching off, put into broth a bulb of onion (without peeling; only wash it properly) and extract it after a minute (you can throw it away). As a result, you have the broth with bronze colour.
Peel and slice the rest of the onion. Leave it having put into water mixed with vinegar, wait for a half an hour.
Combine flour and salt in a large mixing bowl, make a deep well in the center, drop in the egg and a glass of the cool broth (prepared before). Mix the flour into the liquid until thoroughly mixed. Make sure to sprinkle the dough with extra flour as needed. Knead until dough becomes smooth and very elastic in texture.
Divide dough for some larger pieces, roll out each of them into very thin rounds and cut into square slices (called sochnies) which should be about 8 x 8 cm. Divide the broth from casserole into two parts having left meat in one of them only. Boil sochnies in the broth free from meat as usual paste.
For serving besbarmak, put sochnies on the big plate, then put on the top in the middle the meat (boiled once again) and cover everything with the onion from vinegar. The broth is usually served in pialas for drinking. Use spices to taste. Today you might be served besbarmak with cutlery, but if you wish to feel the real name of the dish, you eat it with your five fingers and know that it is still considered as good manners.